Rabbits and
Bunnies -- Holland Lops, Netherland Dwarf, MiniRex – Arizona horse APHA
register Mare
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The Bunny Business In Arizona (Members of ARBA and Desert Dwellers 4H Club) 480-703-5943 OR 520-421-2160 |
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LAST UPDATED 03/28/2007 |
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New Baby Bunnies for
Adoption ($25 Adoption
Fee unless otherwise noted) Adoption Fee includes: Rabbit; Some
Pellets and Timothy Hay; and some Rabbit information |
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Sorry No Babies Available Right Now J They all went at the Pinal
County Fair! |
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Adult Rabbits
for Adoption ($15 Adoption Fee unless otherwise
noted) Adoption Fee includes: Rabbit; Some Pellets and Timothy Hay; and some Rabbit information |
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Sorry No
Adults Available
Right Now J |
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Cages and Carriers FOR |
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Guinea Pig Cage with Red Base $15It’s the cage on the bottom with the red base. *** NOTE: Have another one with a white painted base too!
29”H x 19”W x 19”D Small Gold Tone Bird Cage/Carrier $15 |
USED Rabbit Cages:
Used
Single Cage on wheels $35 with water bottle,
feeder, hay bin and shelf
Light Blue Small Animal Carrier $15Have used this carrier for everything from birds to
bunnies. |
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Horse for
Adoption -
6 year old APHA
registered Mare, White with Blue Eyes and a few spots of color. Asking $3500
OBO Call Brent @602-377-6747 -
- Misty has great conformation and wins blue ribbons in Mare Halter classes every time. - She would do best with an intermediate or advanced rider. - Current on all her shots including West Nile. -
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Our Show and Breeding Rabbits
((These ones are NOT for Adoption) |
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Holland Lop Does: Piccolo(Tort)
Broadway(Tri-Color)
J’lo(Tort)
Wiggley(Sable Point)
Tiger(Tri-Color)
Lil’Romeo(Sable Point)
SweetBoy(Lilac/White) Netherland Dwarf Doe: BlueEyes(BEW) Netherland Dwarf Buck: Elvis(BEW) |
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Our Rabbitry |
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Bunny Facts |
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· Rabbits can live to be 7-10 years old. · They can be litterbox
trained. · Rabbits are sociable
animals. · Rabbits should be spayed
or neutered if they are not bred. · Most rabbits like to be
held and sit beside you. · Bunnies like to play with
toys, such as cardboard boxes, cat balls, parrot toys, and paper towel rolls. · Rabbits need their own
things to chew on or they might chew on your stuff. · Rabbits need to be
protected from predators, poisons, temperature extremes, electrical cords,
and rough handling. · Rabbits must be kept cool
during hot weather. Temperatures above 90 degrees can be fatal! · Rabbits need daily
exercise. |
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Checklist of Supplies |
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q Cage q Feed bowl q Water bottle or crock q Litterbox and litter if
going to litter box train q Feed pellets q Timothy hay q Toys q Exercise Area |
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Is A Rabbit The Right Pet For You? |
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Compared
to dogs, rabbits are a fairly easy pet to own. They don't need to be walked
every day, and can be left alone for several hours a day without having to
worry about bathroom breaks. On the other hand, they are NOT maintenance free
pets. They need lots of attention and exercise. Are
you the right kind of person to live with a rabbit? Rabbits are wonderful
companions for the right people but learning to live with a bunny can take
some adjusting. You must have patience and plenty of time to spend with your
new friend. You must also be comfortable spending a lot of time on the floor,
and you must learn to not be overly fussy about your house and furniture. A
bunny's home needs to be "rabbit-proofed". All electrical cords and
poisonous things that can be eaten such as plants need to be kept out of
reach. If you can't rabbit proof your entire home, you will need to have at
least one room where your rabbit can play safely or an outdoor area. Like
other pets, rabbits may require veterinary care occasionally which could
become costly. However, they do not require vaccinations like cats and
dogs which helps to reduce their overall cost. Like other animals, rabbits
should be spayed/neutered to improve their health and behavior, if they are
not to be used for breeding. Do you have adequate financial resources to
provide veterinary care for your bunny should he or she become sick? Will
a rabbit be a good pet for your kids? The truth is maybe not. If you buy a
rabbit as a pet for a child, you should expect to be its primary caregiver.
The child also needs to be taught how to properly handle the rabbit because
rough handling can be dangerous to a rabbit's frail skeleton. If you are
willing to take full responsibility of a rabbit for its 7-12 years of life,
then maybe
a
rabbit is the
right
pet for you and your family. Please keep in mind that rabbits do not like to
be held for long, and they may also bite or scratch if mishandled. Therefore,
you need to properly supervise your children with the rabbit so that they
learn the right way to pet them and play with them. For these reasons,
rabbits are not recommended as pets for children under 8 years old. Will
your other pets get along with your bunny? The first thing you need to
remember about rabbits and other animals is that rabbits are prey animals,
and they can be easily injured. Cats can learn to get along with a bunny with
the right training. They pose less of a risk to a rabbit than a dog. Cats, just
playing can take a swat at a rabbit and leave not so much as a scratch. Dogs,
on the other hand, can kill a rabbit with one quick snap of their jaws.
Rabbits should be introduced slowly to other pets. Start with your cat or dog
on a leash with the rabbit in its cage. If your cat is not declawed you
should trim its claws. ALWAYS supervise your other pets with your bunny. Even
in play your other pets can kill your beloved bunny without meaning to. Some
people have also had
success
keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together. Please take into consideration all the things mentioned above before you take on the responsibility of rabbit ownership. Too many rabbits are abandoned every year because their owner didn't take the time to think it over. |
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Rabbit Care Guide |
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The information contained on this page comes from a variety of sources. You should consult a licensed veterinarian with any questions about your rabbit's health! Housing
There
are many styles of cages to choose from depending on whether you plan to keep
your rabbit inside or outside. The important things to consider when choosing
a cage is ease of cleaning, adequate size, and most important does it provide
adequate shelter for your rabbit where you will be placing the cage.
I currently house my bunnies in a barn equipped with an fan and misters. The
barn stays under 90 degrees in the summer. These are comfortable temperatures
for me as well as my bunnies. I find that all-wire cages work the best for me
due to their ease in cleaning. I do provide something for the rabbits to rest
their feet on such as a square of plywood or sheetrock. The resting board can
be discarded and replaced when it becomes soiled.
There are many ideas as to what size cage a rabbit needs. Small breed such as
Netherland Dwarfs and Hollands can get by with a 24"X24" cage.
Medium breeds need cages about 30"X30", and the large breeds need
cages 36"X30" or larger. Rabbits should be let out of their cage
everyday for exercise. If they must be confined to their cage for longer
periods of time a little bigger cage wouldn't hurt.
Under the cages are metal pans which catch the rabbit waste. I put pine
shavings in the pan. Rabbits can also be litterbox trained. Many of my
rabbits use litterboxes in their cage. See my section on litter training
below. The rabbit's cage should be cleaned and disinfected at least once a week,
preferably more often. The ammonia fumes from their urine can cause them to
develop health problems, particularly respiratory diseases.
Rabbits outside must be protected from the weather. They do fair better in
colder weather than hot, but still need to be protected from rain or snow and
wind. High temperatures above 90 degrees are dangerous to rabbits. When it
gets this hot you can put frozen 2-liter bottles of water in their cage to
keep them cool. Misting their ears with water also helps. Wetting down the
roof of an outdoor building or hutch can cool the temperature as much as 10
degrees. Fans place near cages but not blowing directly on the rabbits can
help take the edge off. A window air conditioner in an outdoor building is
very beneficial when it is really hot. Outdoor hutches and buildings should
be placed where there is some shade also. In cold weather, bunnies need extra
hay or straw to keep warm and need to be shielded from the cold wind. Feeding
Different
people have different ideas about how a rabbit should be fed. I would like to
present what has worked for me. I don't think my way is superior to any other
methods, because I think that rabbits are kind of like people when it comes
to food. Some rabbits can eat one thing and be fine whereas another would
have digestive problems. Also rabbits differ as much in their food
preferences as they do in their personalities.
The most important part of the rabbit's diet should come from a good pelleted
food. When buying food pellets make sure they are fresh and aren't moldy or
insect infested. Don't buy more than one months supply of food at one time,
or the pellets will start to lose their nutritional value. Generally, one
should look for a pellet that is 16-18% protein and at least 18% fiber. I
currently use Purina Advanced Nutrition Show Formula. Foods with higher
protein content (18% and up) sometimes don't work well with the small breeds,
like hollands, as they may develop soft stools or shed more frequently. It is
important to find a food that is consistent and palatable to your rabbits. If
they won't eat it then it won't do them any good.
The amount of pellets to feed your rabbit depends on its size and age. Up to
4 months a bunny should be fed as many pellets as he or she will eat. After
that the amount of pellets fed needs to be limited or the bunny will soon be
overweight. My hollands which range in size from 3-4 lbs. eat between a 1/3
and a 1/2 cup of feed per day. I monitor their weight closely if they are
becoming too fat I cut down on the pellets a little, and if they are looking
thin I increase their feed. It is important to empty any old feed left in
their bowls everyday before giving them more pellets. Food bowls should also
be washed frequently.
A second equally important part of a rabbit's diet is hay. Hay adds fiber to
the diet and keeps the rabbits digestive system working properly. I feed my
bunnies a generous handful of hay every day. Neutered pet rabbits do best if
they have access to hay at all times. Hay can do wonders for rabbits with
chronic soft stools.
There are many types of hay you can buy. Grass hay such as timothy is
recommended over legume hay such as alfalfa. I feed my bunnies timothy and
oat hay. I only feed alfalfa as an occasional treat and in small quantities.
Alfalfa can be too rich for bunnies, and they are already getting it in their
food pellets.
There are also a number of fresh fruits and vegetables that can be fed to
rabbits. For a list of rabbit safe foods see the House Rabbit Society
page at http://www.rabbit.org/. I don't feed a lot of fresh foods as some
have a tendency to cause diarrhea in rabbits. I would recommend waiting until
your rabbit is at least 6 months old before you start feeding fresh foods.
Always add new foods one at a time and in small quantities to your rabbit's
diet. Then if there is a problem you can stop giving that particular food. Too many extra types of food can throw off the balance of
the pellet diet so they should be given only given occasionally as treats.
Some treats that I have found to be safe for my bunnies include sunflower
seeds, Old-fashioned oatmeal (the stuff that takes longer to cook), Calf
Manna (1 Tbsp./day max.), a slice of banana or apple (not the whole thing!),
or a piece of carrot. I feed only one type of treat per day and in small
amounts. APPLE SEEDS can
be deadly to rabbits so always slice an outer part of the apple as a treat.
If you are wondering what time of day it is best to feed rabbits, it is
probably early in the morning or in the evening. This is the time they are
the most active. I feed twice a day. They get pellets in the morning, and treats
and hay in the evening. This schedule can be reversed of course, but you
should stay consistent in your feeding schedule. I prefer to feed their
pellets and treats at different times because many rabbits will pick out the
"good stuff" and leave their pellets untouched.
Rabbits need access to fresh water at all times. You can give them water in
crocks, bowls, or water bottles. Crocks and bowls should be cleaned out every
day. Water bottles are more sanitary but may freeze outdoors in the winter.
The water in bottles should be changed every couple days even if they still
contain water. Health Check List
Proper feeding and housing are not the only things you can do to keep your
rabbit in the best possible condition. Careful observation of your bunny is
the key to identifying any health problems early so that veterinary
intervention can get him back to feeling good quickly. The following list can
help you to identify illnesses or problems with your bunny. 1. Check
your bunny's food and water containers. Is he eating and drinking? Check
water bottles to make sure they are working properly. A bunny that is not
drinking water or eating is a sick bunny and should see a veterinarian
immediately. 2. Are
your bunny's droppings normal? Check around the cage for signs of
diarrhea. Check your bunny's bottom to make sure it is clean and doesn't have
dried diarrhea on it. Also check for droppings that have a
"string-of-pearl" appearance. This could indicate an increase
chance of wool block. Signs of droppings decreasing in size or a bunny not
producing any droppings is a cause for alarm. Symptoms as described here are
nothing to waste time about, see a vet immediately. 3. Are
his eyes bright and clear? Watery eyes, redness, or the presence of pus
in the eyes are all signs of an eye infection which requires attention. 4. Check
ears. Do you see any signs of wax build-up or dirt? If so this can be a
sign of ear mites. The rabbit ears should be cleaned and checked for ear
mites by a vet. 5. Check
nose. Does your bunny have a runny nose? A runny nose can indicate a
respiratory infection. Also he should be wiggling his nose continuously. If
he is not then he isn't feeling well. 6. Check
teeth. Normally a rabbit's top teeth should overlap the bottom teeth slightly.
If the teeth meet head-on or the bottom teeth are over the top this is termed
a malloclusion. A rabbit may not be able to eat properly with a malloclusion.
While this condition is not curable, having his teeth trimmed regularly may
allow him to live a normal, happy life. Also check for signs of broken teeth.
7. Check
feet for sores. It is a good idea to check your rabbit's feet for sores,
particularly if his cage floor is wire. Sore hocks can become infected and
need medical treatment. 8. Nails.
Rabbit's nail need regular trimming. They should be checked once a month and
trimmed if necessary. They can be trimmed with regular pet nail trimmers. Be
careful that you avoid cutting the vein running into the nail. If you are not
sure how to do this your vet can show you how. 9. Check
fur for fleas and mites. If you find signs of these you rabbit needs
treatment. Also check for any wounds, cuts, or scabs on your rabbit and take
appropriate action. 10. Behavior
check. Is your rabbit acting normal? Is he active and alert? Or is he
listless and huddled in a corner? Changes in your pet's behavior can be the
first sign of illness.
The best medicine is always prevention. By providing your rabbit with
adequate shelter and nutrition, along with love and attention, many illnesses
can be prevented. It is also important to find a veterinarian experienced
with rabbits before you have an emergency. See the House Rabbit Society
for tips in finding a vet in your area. Handling Your Bunny
In order to gain the trust of your bunny, you must learn how to properly
handle her. Rabbits generally enjoy being petted on top of the head and being
stroked down their back. However, they don't like to be touched on the nose,
chin, or under the chin. This is probably a defense mechanism. Some also
don't like their feet touched. You will soon learn how your pet likes to be
petted.
Learning how to properly pick up your rabbit can take some time. If you are
just learning you should wear a long sleeved shirt to protect your arms from
scratches. If a rabbit doesn't feel secure it will kick strongly with its
hind legs. You can pick up your rabbit by having it facing you on the ground.
Slide your right hand under the rabbit's side until you are supporting its
chest with this hand. Put your left hand on the rabbit rump. Scoop the rabbit
up and bring it to your chest. Move your left arm so it is a
"shelf" for the rabbit to rest on, and put your right hand on the
rabbits back to keep it still. If the rabbit is very nervous you can tuck its
head under your arm and this will calm it. One thing you should never do is
pick a rabbit up by its ears. This is painful to a rabbit. When you place
your rabbit in his cage, put him in backwards. This way is he is less likely
to kick or jump out of your arms.
Rabbits, unlike other animals such as cats and dogs, generally do not like to
be held for very long. Grooming
Most rabbits need only a brushing once a week to keep them in good condition.
Of course if you own a long haired breed like an angora you may have to groom
more often. I use a soft bristled cat brush for brushing, and a slicker brush
to remove loose hair. If the rabbit is shedding a lot (usually 2-4
times/year) you will need to brush him every day to keep him from ingesting
too much hair which can lead to the formation of hairballs. Rabbits are clean
animals and groom themselves by licking as cats do. However, they cannot
throw-up hairballs like cats and hairballs can lead to intestinal blockages.
Rabbits do not need to be bathed. If they are dirty you can spot clean them
but you shouldn't completely immerse them in water. Rabbits
will occasionally need the inside of their ears cleaned. A little sweet oil
placed in the ear once a month can help prevent ear mites and will help
soften any ear wax. Secretions
from the scent glands in the vent area of the rabbit also need cleaned
occasionally by gently using a wet Q-tip. Litter Training
Rabbits may be litterbox trained. Some rabbits are easier trained than
others. Neutered/spayed rabbits
are much easier to train. Litter training should first begin inside the
rabbits cage. First you must acquire a litter pan that is a proper size for
your rabbit. Small cat pans work well for small breeds, or you can use a
rectangular baking dish. Next place an inch or two of absorbent material in
the pan. Place the litterbox in an area of the cage where the rabbit prefers
to go. Usually a rabbit will pick one corner of its cage for its bathroom.
Put some of the rabbits dropping in the litterbox to attract the rabbit.
Sometimes the rabbit will immediately start using the box. If he starts going
in another corner, try moving the box to that corner. You may also put
multiple pans in his cage until he gets the idea and picks one to use.
The next step is litter training outside the cage. Start with a small area
outside cage and gradually work up to a larger area of space. Giving the
rabbit too much freedom at first is likely to lead to much failure in his
training. Place a box in an area the rabbit has chosen. It is also helpful if
the rabbit has access to his cage. He can learn to go back to his cage to use
the bathroom. Once the rabbit is successfully using a box in a given area you
can increase his roaming area. Always make sure the area is "rabbit-proofed".
Make sure there are no electrical cords that can be chewed or any thing
poisonous in the area like plants or cleaning supplies which may be eaten. It
is not a good idea to leave the rabbit unattended while he is out of his
cage. You can't successfully train him if you aren't watching him. If you see
him raise his tail as to use the bathroom you should herd him toward his cage
or a litterbox.
Litter training isn't always easy. But don't give up if your rabbit doesn't
catch on right away. Persistence is the key. Sometimes younger rabbits take
time to learn. Spaying/neutering will also help. If you get an older rabbit
don't assume it is too old to learn to be litter trained. Older rabbits are
sometimes a lot easier to train. It is also common for a rabbit to urinate in
his box but leave droppings outside the box. The dropping are easily swept up
though.
There are many types of absorbent materials you can use in your rabbit's
litterbox. Some of these materials include shredded newspaper, aspen
shavings, peat moss, Carefresh litter, clay cat litter, hay, or even rabbit
food pellets. Please see the House Rabbit Societypage
for the pros and cons of using these types of litter. Litter materials to
avoid include clumping cat litter and cedar or pine shavings.
There are many advantages to litter training for both you and your rabbit.
For the rabbit, litter training can mean increased freedom in your household,
and therefore more exercise. For you it can decrease cleaning time and help
eliminate odors in your house. Spaying and Neutering
If you do not plan to breed your bunny it is best to have it spayed or
neutered. Female rabbits that are not bred can develop uterine cancer.
Spaying will eliminate this risk. Many behavior problems are also corrected
with neutering. Unneutered male rabbits often spray urine and their urine can
become very strong in odor. Aggressive behavior can also be eliminated by
spaying/neutering. It can also allow you to keep more than one rabbit in your
household without fighting or an unexis a good idea to find a rabbit vet
anyway in case of an emergency. Toys For Your Bunny
Bunnies need toys to play with to keep them mentally stimulated and out of
mischief. A bored bunny is a destructive bunny. You should give them toys
that allow them to express their natural tendencies. For example, rabbits
like to chew on things. To prevent them from chewing on things they shouldn't
give them things that are safe to gnaw on such as cardboard, toilet paper
rolls, and wooden chew toys(sold in pet stores). Rabbits also enjoy playing
inside boxes. You can cut holes in the sides of a closed cardboard box and
your rabbit will occupy himself for hours running in and out of the box.
Rabbits also like to take naps in their new "house". They also have
fun with paper bags. Cat toys or parrot toys that can be tossed also are
amusing to rabbits. |
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Thanks for Looking! Email us at [email protected] Call us at 520-421-2160 JJJ |
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